Will Byrnes's Reviews > Rivers of Power: How a Natural Force Raised Kingdoms, Destroyed Civilizations, and Shapes Our World

There is a vast arterial power humming all around us, hiding in plain sight. It has shaped our civilization more than any road, technology, or political leader. It has opened frontiers, founded cities, settled borders, and fed billions. It promotes life, forges peace, grants power, and capriciously destroys everything in its path. Increasingly domesticated, even manacled, it is an ancient power that rules us still.

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…not only are we humans an urban species, we are also a river species. Indeed nearly two thirds (63 percent) of the total world population lives within 20 kilometers of a large river Some 84 percent of the world’s large cities…are located along a large river. For the world’s megacities the number rises to 93 percent.

We are river people, most of us anyway, although we may or may not be aware of it. The places where we live, work, and gplay tend to center around our streaming waterways. Even settlements at the coast of seas and oceans tend to be located where rivers empty into the larger bodies of water. As significant as light, land, breathable air, and tolerable temperature ranges, rivers have powered the development of homo sapiens from hunter-gatherer to space traveler. As with most things that underlay, and power our lives, I expect that most of us do not give our rivers much thought.


Laurence Smith - (looking suspiciously like the character Bernard Lowe of Westworld – we presume Smith is human) - image from Institute at Brown for Environment & Society

I grew up, as most of you probably did, near a river. At the breakfast table in our third-floor apartment in the Bronx, the morning light was so bright, so glaring that we had to pull down the shade in our single kitchen window. The golden beams came at us from the west, reflected off the windows of George Washington High School in Manhattan, across the Harlem River, which was about four blocks to the west. I never thought much about the river, although it was so close by. Unlike the morning glare, it was not directly visible from any of our windows, and was not in clear sight from most of the places I frequented.

In Rivers of Power, which could as easily have been titled The Power of Rivers, geographer Laurence Smith offers a drop of geological history on how they came to be, but focuses mostly on how rivers and humans have worked together throughout our shared time on Earth. His analysis cites the challenges rivers present to their neighbors, but mostly the benefits they offer, which he divides into five general categories, Access, Natural Capital, Territory, Well-Being, and Means of Projecting Power. He then looks at major rivers of the world through this quintuple lens to broaden and deepen our appreciation for this very necessary, but sometimes unseen partner.


The Sherman Creek Generating Station on the Harlem River, the Hudson River visible at top – image from Hidden Waters blog

The river was bordered on the Bronx side by Penn Central tracks, accessible through holes nicely cut in chain-link fences. It was a good place to tape coins to tracks allowing rolling stock the chance to flatten and stretch them to the delight of wastrel urchins. The most frequent floating stock I recall passing by just beyond the tracks consisted of barges loaded with coal for a local powerplant.


A Nilometer on Rhoda Island, Cairo – image from Wikipedia

It will come as no great surprise that the first great societies in human history arose around rivers. You will know about early Mesopotamia on the Tigris and Euphrates, and Egypt on the Nile. But you may not know about another that far pre-dated both, the Harappan civilization of the Indus and Ghaggar Hakra river valleys. It is one of the great joys of this book that it brings to light such nuggets of information that were completely new, well, to me, anyway. I had never before heard, for example, of a nilometer (see image above), a significant tool used by Egyptian leaders. It allowed those in charge to see the clarity of the water and depth of the river at a given moment and thus be prepared for excessive or insufficient annual flooding of the Nile River Valley, with huge implications for the harvest to come.


Guns along the Hudson - Saratoga Battlefield - my shot

Laurence looks at how civilizations grew up along rivers. There are obvious advantages, from fresh water for drinking and cleaning to irrigation, from transportation to military defense. While rivers provided water for community needs, and as technology progressed, could be used to power waterwheels and cool manufactories, they were also a tool that could be used by those upriver for political and/or military advantage. A nation, or community located upriver could divert so much of the river’s water that a downstream community could find its crucial resource seriously diminished or totally gone, and, in addition, the disadvantage of being downstream from polluters. Rivers allow for the emplacement of forts and armaments that could protect a community from a naval invasion, and offer highways on which raiders could attack poorly defended communities (think Vikings).


The Ganges - image from Encyclopedia Britannica - © Jedraszak/iStock.com

But there are many other ways that rivers impact our lives, and have done so for as long as there have been people living in communities. They have served as a focal point for religious practices. The Ganges is used as a site into which Hindus deliver the cremated remains of their dead. The river Jordan was a memorable site in Christian lore as the place where Jesus was baptized, and today rivers are still often used in baptismal rites. And let us not forget underground waterways in myth, like the Rivers Styx, Acheron, and Lethe.

River as judge-and-jury has a place in history too, not necessarily a good place. In the Hammurabi Code, for instance, a charge of sorcery was adjudicated by tossing the accused (one wonders if a local rat-bastard accused some poor schmo of turning him into a newt) into the Euphrates. If the newly dunked swims to shore, not guilty. If the accused drowns, oh, well. (that turning people into a newt thing would have really come in handy). I expect there are probably books to be written (undoubtedly some already have been) about rivers, real and imagined, in religion, literature, and mythology. Smith touches on this in this book, but it is not a major focus.

I had a small unfortunate intersection with the Harlem as a young man. A friend and I were at the water’s edge, very close to the Washington Heights Bridge. I was there helping him clean his car, at some point in the late 60s, on a summer afternoon. I availed of a very lengthy bit of rope that some daring soul had tethered to the underside of the bridge. There was a knot at the bottom, but I did not have the firmest grip on the rope with my hands or on the knot with any other body parts, and my arm strength not being what I might have hoped, I soon found myself swinging out over the Harlem River, for a brief bit of fun, then desperately plunging toward the water as my grip gave way. I can’t say it was awful, no body parts or other unspeakables floated past, but it was not considered an ideal bathing venue, so I swam back to shore, soaked, somewhat gritty, and mortified.

Smith offers a considerable survey of what is happening in the great rivers of the world today, physically and politically. The great dam building that is going on echoes the burst of dam building that took place in the early-mid twentieth century in the West. When the Great Ethiopian Renaissance Dam (GERD), across the Blue Nile, was completed in 2022, it became the largest hydroelectric plant in Africa. The Three Gorges Dam in China, across the Yangtze, achieved a generating capacity of 22,500 megawatts when it was finally finished. It has also required the displacement of over a million people and has caused significant ecological damage. Many older dams in the west are being taken down, with an eye to reviving stifled ecological systems.


The Three Gorges Dam - as of 2009 – image from Wikipedia

Not very far west the Hudson offered a much grander vista, and probably cleaner swimming, although it would take some years before environmentalists, led by Pete Seeger, forced a river cleanup. The view from the train on the Hudson Line, of what is now Metro North, is ta-die-faw. The Palisades formation on the western side of the Hudson was and remains magnificent, particularly celestial in its autumnal finery. The view is even better at the more leisurely pace afforded by the Day Line cruise from the western piers of midtown Manhattan up-river to places like Bear Mountain Park and West Point. This was a most welcome respite for someone who had experienced worlds that were not entirely composed of brick and concrete only on day trips in summer camp.

There has been considerable change in the use of river-front land in cities across the world. Rotting piers of earlier mercantile and industrial ages have given way to increasing development of waterside property for high-priced residences, office towers, and commercial spaces, AND for public use. Smith points out the history of law that preserves riverine access for all. It has certainly been far from universally applied. But today, most major world cities have been working to make their rivers accessible to the general public. As people become more urbanized, the need, and yes, it is a need for most, for exposure to the outdoors, for a connection to nature, can be satisfied at least somewhat by walks along or other activities in riverfront parks.

There came a time when my ancient car still ran, when I could still drive to work in Queens late at night, and drive (if you can call the stop-and-go nightmare of NYC rush hour traffic driving) home to Brooklyn in the morning. But on Sunday mornings, after my overnight shift, I went elsewhere. Eventually I would diversify, but for a while I would tote my digital SLR to Brooklyn Bridge Park, and environs, to shoot urban landscapes, as the more remote ones were no longer within my means. The need to shoot was powerful, but equally as strong was the comfort to be had in being in a place where the East River was coursing under a series of bridges, on it’s way to meeting up with the outflow of the Hudson en route to the Atlantic. It was an idyllic time of day to be there, early morning, as the sun rose, or soon after. Floods of tourists have yet to arrive. A trickle of joggers trot past. Winter is best for relative solitude there. I told my son once that seeing the beauty of such places, whether urban or wilderness, filled me with a kind of transcendental joy that seemed to my atheistic self something like religion. “Why something like?” he asked. Why indeed.


While most of my BB Park shots were taken early in the morning, I did manage an evening outing there once or twice.

Smith concludes by looking ahead at what amazing new tech promises for the future, and for what global warming portends for rivers. Advances in coming technology, particularly small hydro power installations, amelioratives like a project planned for New Orleans, Los Angeles working on finding new sources of fresh water, new satellite swarms that allow incredibly greater monitoring of earthly waterflows and conditions.

I cannot say that I have any real gripes about the book. It is well-written and informative, presenting a wealth of information about the history of humanity’s relationship with rivers, and explaining how rivers have helped found and shape civilizations. It will definitely remind you of Jared Diamond’s work. Not a gripe, but I do enjoy a bit of levity in non-fiction. I guess it serves a similar purpose to comic relief in dramas. No danger of running into that here. Still, Rivers of Power will get your gray cells flashing, and maybe push you to think a bit about the river that is nearest you now or the river you recall from when you were growing up. Instead of memory lane, it might be more like memory creek.

Today it is bedrock legal principle across the globe that rivers cannot be owned. Even in countries with strong capitalist traditions, such as the United States and the United Kingdom, rivers are a class apart, reserved for the public good. This puts rivers in a category distinctly different from other natural resources. It is extremely common for land, trees, minerals, and water from other natural sources (e.g. springs, ponds, aquifers) to be deemed private property. Rivers, air, and oceans, however, are treated very differently.

Review first posted – March 20, 2020

Publication date – April 21, 2020


==========In the summer of 2019 GR reduced the allowable review size by 25%, from 20,000 to 15,000 characters. In order to accommodate the text beyond that I have moved it to the comments section directly below.