Giblet gravy supreme.

SERVES 24 (makes 8 cups without giblets) TIME 2 hours

Why do we love this gravy? For its intense, triple-decker poultry flavor from turkey giblets, chicken broth, and turkey drippings.

 Giblets and neck from a 10-to 24-lb. turkey, rinsed
 About 10 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
 2 1/2 cups dry white wine or chicken broth
 2 onions (1 lb. total), quartered
 4 carrots (1 lb. total), sliced
 1 3/4 cups sliced celery
 8 parsley sprigs
 1 tsp. fresh marjoram leaves or 1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
 About 1 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper
 1 cup all-purpose flour
 Fat-skimmed oven-roasted or barbecued turkey drippings (optional)

1. In a 5-to 6-qt. pan over high heat, combine giblets, neck, 10 cups broth, the wine, onions, carrots, celery, parsley, marjoram, and 1 tsp. each salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until all giblets are very tender when pierced, about 1 hour.

2. Toast flour in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring, until deep golden brown and smells richly toasted (but not scorched), 12 to 15 minutes. Pour into a bowl.

3. Pour broth through a fine strainer into a bowl, reserving pan. Discard vegetables (save giblets and neck if you like). Measure broth. If you have more than 8 cups, boil, to reduce; if you have less, add more chicken broth.

4. If using giblets and neck, pull meat off neck; discard bones. Finely chop meat and giblets.

5. Whisk about 3 cups simmered broth into flour. Pour into the 5-to 6-qt. pan and add remaining broth.

6. Scrape drippings free from roasting or grill drip pan; add to broth. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring; lower heat and simmer, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add giblets, if you like, and stir 1 to 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Make ahead: Up to 1 day ahead, make through step 5, cover, and chill.

To reheat, add turkey drippings and warm over low heat, stirring often.

PER 1/3-CUP SERVING 35 CAL, 5% (1.8 CAL) FROM FAT; 2.3 G PROTEIN; 0.2 G FAT (0G SAT); 6 G CARBO (0.5 G FIBER); 342 MG SODIUM; 2 MG CHOL.