Been reading a fair amount about Machu Picchu recently, initially as I was fascinated to learn about their unbelievably precise stonework:
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…butBeen reading a fair amount about Machu Picchu recently, initially as I was fascinated to learn about their unbelievably precise stonework:
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…but also then got into the whole history of its discovery, as well as Incan history itself, (which again just highlighted the horrific abuses of the "more civilized culture" - in this case the Spanish - in their wanton desecration, slaughter and theft…not that the Incans themselves weren't right bastards in their own internicine warfare).
Anyway, I went through several interesting books on this from the library, but as a former art school guy, this one was my favorite thanks to Lewin's beautiful watercolor illustrations:
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Short, informative, and just really beautiful....more
However, after the first half dozen islands or so this became dull and predictable, lacking even a sprinkling of the humor that made those other books so enjoyable. Basically, it's a litany of Mad Libs or "Create Your Own Adventure"-type stories: "In (year between 1500-1850), the island of (name) was spotted by (sailor/explorer) in the (North/South Atlantic, North/South Pacific) Ocean, and then seen again in (later year) by (later sailor/explorer); after which it was never found again."
Mildly interesting to learn that for a long time both Baja California and Korea were thought to be islands…but otherwise, sorry to say there's very little here to recommend....more
Another beautiful (if totally unnecessary) addition to my mountaineering library, this coffee table book originally cost $50, but was available "like Another beautiful (if totally unnecessary) addition to my mountaineering library, this coffee table book originally cost $50, but was available "like new" at McKay's for just $2 - how could I refuse? Will eventually actually read it, but the pictures alone are at least a $20 value :)...more
(Another obscure end-of-December title; I like ending the year with something weird, and then beginning the next with some guaranteed winners - which (Another obscure end-of-December title; I like ending the year with something weird, and then beginning the next with some guaranteed winners - which thanks to our local B&N closing and so offering everything at half off, I now have plenty of!)
Despite his global fame during the first third of the 20th Century, there are surprisingly few decent biographies of Roy Chapman Andrews, most of which are aimed at a younger audience, (probably due to the dinosaur connection). And frankly this one didn't really strike me as a fully "grown-up" bio either, probably due to its uninspired writing style and constant reference to its hero as "Roy." Still, an adequate - if workmanlike - portrait of the man, at least until something better came along.
PERSONAL COMMENT: As a former graphic designer, I always pay attention to the dustjackets of these older books; and aside from the WTF?? 1970s typography here, I kinda liked this one. There's a nice Warholian feel to the solid colors overlaid on a B&W photo (although I really wish they'd done his assistant's robe as well) that makes me want to get out my silkscreen and do a whole series of 19th-20th century explorers, à la Andy's Marilyn Monroe prints. The whole thing also nicely wraps around to the back cover and its shocking orange camel…
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…undisturbed by any back cover text (and when's the last time that happened?). Also - anyone else remember those old-school corners we used to use to paste photos (often square back then) into photo albums? Good times…
(Purchased online as a withdrawn book from the Sam Houston State University Library in Hunsville, Texas)...more
Okay, so that makes an even dozen books on my "Shackleton/Crean" bookshelf, which means I needed this coffee table book like an eighth hole in my headOkay, so that makes an even dozen books on my "Shackleton/Crean" bookshelf, which means I needed this coffee table book like an eighth hole in my head. But for $2 at our massive used bookstore, I just couldn't say no.
Little new here, but the book does do a particularly nice job covering Shackleton's less famous - i.e., not the Endurance - voyages in both text and photos. So necessary or not, that was definitely two bucks well spent....more
There are a number of excellent 5-star reviews of this outstanding, important, impactful* but deeply unsettling book, so I won't waste time restating There are a number of excellent 5-star reviews of this outstanding, important, impactful* but deeply unsettling book, so I won't waste time restating what so many others have said better regarding the overall horror show that was King Leopold - and not, somewhat surprisingly, Belgium as a whole** - in the Congo. That said, I do have a few other fairly random thoughts, presented here in no particular order:
* Unlike most other mass murderers of history, Leopold wasn't driven by any particular philosophy or ideology - Nazism, Communism, racism or any other evil "-ism" - as much as by pure, personal, and unadulterated greed. And sure enough (and yes, I DO hate the fact that so many books point me back in this direction), as I read the book I couldn't help but increasingly compare Leopold to Donald Trump: the venality, greed, narcissism, deep cynicism and shameless dishonesty (intentionally trying to disguise his planned rape of the Congo as an attempt to actually fight slavery); the personal immorality (flaunting of his years-long affair with a former prostitute 49 years his junior); his crying "fake news" when the media finally got on to his deeds, and then trying to destroy all physical evidence, (the burning of the Congo Free State archives in particular sounds like Mark Meadows' post-election document fires that left his suits "smelling like a bonfire," according to Cassidy Hutchinson's book)…
* There are however a few real heroes here, namely E.D. Morel, Roger Casement, George Washington Williams, William Henry Sheppard, and others - all of whom were new to me. Other names I had heard of, but never particularly connected to Africa before, including John Dunlop and Charles Goodyear (both of tire fame), Charles Macintosh (whose waterproof rainwear continues to bear his name), and Wilfred Thesiger, who I knew more as a later-in-life explorer but who had also been British Consul to Boma in 1908-1909, from where he reported on Leopold's atrocities to the British Parliament. (Joseph Conrad and Henry Morton Stanley I of course already knew as "old Africa hands," but had never known just what a psycho nutcase Stanley was - yikes!)
* And okay, once Leopold died, Belgium did retain the Congo as a colony for another half century, but at least began the slow process of reversing Leopold's worst abuses and trying to improve life for the remaining Congolese. Somewhat fortuitously for Belgium, just as its international reputation was becoming ever-more tarnished through the increasing revelations of Leopold's depravity, the country was invaded by Germany in 1914, and so quickly went from "villain" to "victim" in the eyes of its allies, including (most importantly) England and America.
* So indisputably, Leopold sucked. But Hochschild's final chapters paint an almost equally damning picture of how the other European powers (largely France, Germany, Portugal and Britain) behaved in Africa; or how the Australians and Americans treated the indigenous peoples in their own homelands, (and in our own case, also during our one colonial misadventure in the Philippines). So more properly: yeah, people in general suck.
* And sadly, post-colonial Africans today aren't treating each other much better than their former white masters did; and Hochschild does an equally solid-if-depressing job of laying out just how dismal the future looks for much of the subcontinent, (see above: "people suck").
* On a somewhat (and much needed) lighter note, reading about G.W. Williams and seeing his photo made me think "hey, he looks/sounds like Sam Jackson in the latest Tarzan movie" (2016's The Legend of Tarzan) - and sure enough, Jackson was indeed portraying Williams, just as Christoph Waltz portrayed real-life villain (and role model for Conrad's "Kurtz") Leon Rom. So I quickly borrowed and rewatched the movie, which I not only really enjoyed (despite its crummy reviews), but appreciated how they tried to place classic Tarzan in a legitimate historical setting, as spelled out in the film's opening scrawl:
"At the Berlin Conference of 1884, the world's colonial powers took it upon themselves to divide up the African Congo. King Leopold of Belgium claimed the vast Congo Basin, rich in ivory and minerals. Five years later, he had run up huge debts in his ambition to exploit his new colony…"
…which is oversimplified but largely correct, but is then followed with:
"Desperate for funds and running out of money to pay his army, he sent his trusted servant, Leon Rom, to the Congo to source the legendary diamonds of Opar…"
…which, okay, says goodbye to history here and hello to the fifth Borroughs book, Tarzan and the Jewels of Opar. But then the movie actually does circle back again at the very end, concluding with the (factual) release of William's damning 1890 "Open Letter to His Serene Majesty Leopold II, King of the Belgians and Sovereign of the Independent State of Congo" in which he condemned the brutal treatment of the Congolese (if totally neglected to mention Tarzan at all). Sadly, the real-life Williams passed away in 1891 during his return from Africa to England, and so never knew the impact of his work. But still, a great character well-deserving of the "full Sam Jackson."
* Looking for other books on the topic, I found a children's book at our library called Leopold II: Butcher of the Congo which frankly seems like a pretty messed-up title and subject for young readers***, (it was shelved under "Juvenile"). That said, however, it included the following map, which pretty much sums things up in two images as well as Hochschild did in any 100 pages:
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And…that's enough. Fantastic book; indeed, "popular history" at its best. And yes, it's a total bummer - but sometimes we need to be bummed in order to become better. People don't have to suck! _________________________________
* "Impactful:" before this book was published, most people - including even a large number of Belgians - apparently had no idea of what had been going on in Africa under Leopold's rule, since the Congo was HIS PERSONAL PROPERTY, and not an actual Belgian colony.
** "Not Belgium as a whole:" Much to my personal relief, since we lived in Belgium for two years and loved the place and its people; so would hate to have to reevaluate that entire experience now, (much as I've had to reconsider my personal relationship to "the English" after visiting Ireland and exploring my familial roots there).
*** This book as part of a series called "Wicked History," and includes similar titles on Torquemada, Rasputin, Ivan the Terrible, Vlad the Impaler…kids, kids - please go read books about inspiring heroes instead!!...more
Wally Herbert deserves way more recognition than he apparently has - not only as an explorer in his own right, but*** THIS BOOK GETS ALL THE STARS ***
Wally Herbert deserves way more recognition than he apparently has - not only as an explorer in his own right, but also as an award-winning artist and unparalleled chronicler of the polar realms.
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Textually, this is less autobiography (Herbert has written that elsewhere) than an informal and generally chronological retelling of Sir Wally's various adventures; but because there have been just so many of them at both poles, he uses his personal experiences as linking devices to the stories - and Herbert's paintings - of Scott, Nansen, Shackleton, Amundsen, Peary, et al; as well as fascinating diversions on bears, dogs, shamans and other polar topics of interest and beauty.
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As such, this is much more coffee table art book than memoir, beautifully showcasing over 70 of his paintings, drawings and maps (masterpieces in their own right), often in full-page-plus format that makes this a fascinating and breathtaking reading/viewing experience.
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For those unfamiliar with Herbert, among his numerous other exploits was his leading in 1969 the first - and so far only - surface crossing of the entire Arctic Ocean "the long way," i.e., taking the longest ice route from Alaska to Spitsbergen; along the way becoming the first man "fully recognized" for walking to the North Pole (coincidentally on the 60th anniversary of Robert Peary's disputed expedition, which is now widely believed to have not in fact reached the pole).
And for those non-artist readers, it's critical to understand that not only was Herbert completely self-taught, but that he worked in two of the most difficult media out there: watercolor, and an old mapping technique called "pencil and scalpel." Watercolor, because unlike oil painting there is no room for error and no opportunity to overpaint, since all white areas of a painting (which when depicting snow and ice are a LOT) are the bare paper showing through, with only the darker shapes and shadows actually painted. And then "pencil and scalpel," as it involves spraying a special white paper with gray printer's ink and then overdrawing with pencil for the darker tones; while for the lighter/whiter areas, the ink is scraped off with a surgeon's scalpel, resulting in such near-photographic results as these (as well as the self portrait on the book's cover):
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On top of which: while Herbert paints in "full color," the polar worlds are by definition so monochromatic that nearly all of his paintings use less than the full palette, consisting mainly of an infinite number of warm and cool grays with just subtle touches of blue and yellow:
We have a family tradition of giving our kids "motivational" middle names; and so my sons are W. Andrews and (much to his chagrin) M. Younghusband. OnWe have a family tradition of giving our kids "motivational" middle names; and so my sons are W. Andrews and (much to his chagrin) M. Younghusband. One of those sons - an aerospace engineer - has now named his new son I. Yeager; and it is for him that we are starting to build an early motivational bookshelf, including the obvious Chuck Yeager Goes Supersonic: An Action-Packed, True Flying Adventure, but also now this delightful book on Irish hero Tom Crean.
The book ends with Crean's retirement and opening of his "South Pole Inn," which we were luck enough to visit pre-COVID - so here are a few pictures that the book leaves out:
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I'm also slightly disappointed that the book didn't include somewhere the famous "Crean and puppies" photo from the Endurance, so here's that as well:
I continue to make my way (slowly) through The Great Explorers; and while the people described therein are indeed that, the book also includes very feI continue to make my way (slowly) through The Great Explorers; and while the people described therein are indeed that, the book also includes very few female adventurers. So when this book popped up on our library's website, it looked like a quick and easy way to address that oversight.
The book is written by Kari Herbert, daughter of Wally Herbert who (as I learned in Great Explorers) was a polar explorer and outstanding artist himself, as well as the man now widely recognized as the first to walk to the North Pole, (on the 60th anniversary of Robert Peary's disputed expedition). As I read through both these books, I was again struck by how many explorers were also accomplished artists (kind of a "duh!" observation, as this was an important skill in pre-photography days), and so I re-borrowed the excellent Explorers' Sketchbooks: The Art of Discovery & Adventure so that I could match up many of the folks in both these books with their artwork - only to realize that Kari Herbert is also the author of Sketchbook. Small world…or at least narrow field of interest.
Anyway - Herbert filles chronologically presents over a dozen extraordinary - if somewhat overlooked - female explorers, mainly (and I assume intentionally) avoiding such "A-listers" as Sally Ride, Amelia Earhart and Gertrude Bell in favor of such lesser-known - if equally accomplished - names as Mae Jemison, Jean Batten and Freya Stark; (okay, I have heard of her - at least in passing - as well as Sacagawea and Alexandra David-Neel, but the rest were all new to me).
So yeah, great book - whether as a motivational tool for young girls seeking role models outside the realm of entertainment and reality TV, or a source of new knowledge to old farts like me, (and hopefully many others in between)....more
The fall of the Qing Dynasty opened up a new era of exploration in China and Central Asia, introducing the world to such larger-than-life personalitieThe fall of the Qing Dynasty opened up a new era of exploration in China and Central Asia, introducing the world to such larger-than-life personalities as Aurel Stein, Sven Hedin, Albert von le Coq, Roy Chapman Andrews, Alexandra David-Neel, Joseph Rock and…Janet and Frederick Wulsin?
Yeah…I'd never heard of them either; but that lack of familiarity with their story - unlike all those other folks - only makes this wonderful book even more of an undervalued gem. "J" and "F" Wulsin went to China woefully unqualified and unprepared (something I can totally relate to), yet managed to pull off two far-ranging expeditions in Central and Northwest before disappearing into a relative obscurity that was only minimally lifted with the publication of this book twenty years.
The first "book" here (rather than "chapter," for some reason) deals with the Wulsin's backgrounds leading up to their arrival in Peking, and as such is the least interesting, (yet also thankfully shortest). "Book 2" deals with their first, briefer 1921 trek through Shanxi, sponsored by Harvard University; and then "Book 3" - the longest section (fully half the book) - deals with their second (and final) expedition through Inner Mongolia, Gansu, and Qinghai as the ambitiously-named "National Geographic Society's Central-China Expedition," (although the magazine ultimately only printed one article on the Wulsins, in Feb 1926).
But despite the appeal of this classic underdog story, the real treasures here is the gorgeous collection of previously-unpublished photos, which make up the middle third of the book, many in hand-tinted color that at times makes them look like Old Masters:
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Amazingly, all photos were developed and printed onsite in a variety of makeshift darkrooms - a truly daunting/impressive effort in itself, especially in those parts of the vast Mongolian desert where water was largely unavailable. So while both Wulsin's (but especially F) come across as basically unskilled and untrained knuckleheads at the beginning, this soon turns to grudging admiration and ultimately full-on respect by the end (if mostly for J). The endless desert travel; the many fresh and insightful observations on the various Mongol, Manchu, Tibetan and Muslim (then "Mohammedan") cultures and peoples inhabiting some of China's most hard-to-reach areas…and then - of course - those amazing photos:
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A few miscellaneous observations:
The first (boring) section does present an interesting - and not particularly positive - view of expat life in Peking in the 1920's. While China itself continued to suffer through a devastating civil war, those uninvited Westerners enjoyed a "sheltered world of luxuries and social rituals" that included endless dinner parties and dances, horse races and polo matches, and other expressions of "ugly Blank-ism" (substitute nationality of your choice). Certainly not the West's finest moment - but it DOES make me want to go back and take another look at A Photographer in Old Peking.
At the same time, both Wulsins demonstrated an enthusiastic - if often flawed - knowledge of local events. Janet refers to Yuan Shi-Kai as "the former Empress Dowager," and calls Sun Yat-Sen "the talking calamity, who is the cause of most of the trouble down there and the bar to reunification." Both J and F also frequently display the sexism/racism/elitism common at the time: "Chinese architecture has no originality;" "after this life with men servants, I sometimes wonder if I can ever go back to (women) servants with their aches and pains and nerves;" and (my favorite, commenting on the benefits of traveling with another American couple, Harry and Susanne Emery) - "two women in a party are four times as much trouble as one, and one is more trouble than four men." (That from F, obviously.)
Sadly, just four years after their return from China, F abruptly and unexpectedly divorced J while on an expedition to Mexico (ultimately marrying the widow Emery - the "second troublesome woman" in the above comment). J was devastated - but then also remarried several years later - apparently happily - and had a daughter, Mabel, who is the author of this book, (which likely explains the fact that Frederick is portrayed as a bit of a schmuck throughout).
Overall, a solid 5-star recommend for all those who are into such things (you know who you are), and available for under $10 on both eBay and Amazon - so NO reason not to own this delightful, informative, beautiful and deeply human book....more
Excellent, indispensable addition for any true Shacklehead. And while the last thing I need is another book describing Sir Ernest's epic journey, thatExcellent, indispensable addition for any true Shacklehead. And while the last thing I need is another book describing Sir Ernest's epic journey, that section here is brief; of considerably more interest was the overall bio on Hurley himself* and the details of the equipment he used.
And then, of course, there are the photos themselves - as the blurb says, this is "the definitive" and apparently largest collection assembled in one book (although Caroline Alexander's wonderful The Endurance: Shackleton's Legendary Antarctic Expedition also has an impressive collection), most of which are presented here one-to-a-page, rather than shrunk and sandwiched in amongst lots of text. And remember - the bulk of these were shot on 8"x 6" glass plates that he rescued and then carried throughout the entire nightmare journey, (Hurley was able to save 150 such negative plates, but had to destroy an additional 400 - many of which had thankfully already been printed. Those that survived remain in such good condition that high quality prints can still be made from them today; and certainly many of the photos here - even those shot below decks in low light situations - appear razor sharp and almost grain-free.)
Most all of the more famous photos are included here, but also a number I've never seen before. And there are a surprising number of color shots as well, using an early process called Paget Color Plates, (ironically, these pictures are among the few remaining examples of that process).
I also found the section on Hurley's equipment of particular interest, since as a photo student way back in the mid-'70s I used to roll and process my own B&W film in those old red-light darkrooms that younger folks only know of (if at all) from old movies. Most books harp on Hurley's "glass plate negatives" which indeed constitute a remarkable story; but he also used a variety of other then-cutting-edge technologies with both still and motion cameras, as well as very early types of Kodak roll film.
So, yeah - excellent book, and an absolute steal for $1 at our huge local used book store.** My only complaint: when did publishers start printing photos captions in 8 pt. type?? I love "white space" as much as the next guy - but that is bullshit. ________________________________
* This is the first Endurance-related book I've read since Crean: The Extraordinary Life Of An Irish Hero, a great bio of probably the most remarkable crewman on this amazing journey. Tom Crean not only participated in Scott's ill-fated "Terra Nova Expedition," (during which he undertook a 35-mile solo walk across the Ross Ice Shelf to save the life of Edward Evans, for which he was awarded the Albert Medal), but it was also Crean who - along with Shackleton and Endurance navigator Frank Worsley - made the epic overland crossing of South Georgia that launched the rescue effort for those left behind on Elephant Island.
** Book itself is in new condition, with only minor abuse to the dust jacket - but that still pisses me off. "Book abuse" - like most other forms of abuse - should be a crime, albeit a relatively minor one, resulting in at least the loss of one's library card or suspension of Amazon privileges....more
Annddd…FINISHED! Absolutely outstanding; even those "boring old explorers" I learned back in middle school - Lewis & Clark, Champlain, Magellan, etc. Annddd…FINISHED! Absolutely outstanding; even those "boring old explorers" I learned back in middle school - Lewis & Clark, Champlain, Magellan, etc. - were fascinating to read about in this excellent collection.
Some real heroes here, including several unknown to me like Heinrich Barth, (who was so impressive that I've already ordered A Labyrinth of Kingdoms: 10,000 Miles through Islamic Africa, the only biography in English on this brilliant, compassionate and far-too-little-known explorer of Muslim Africa); as well as some genuine assholes, such as Nikolay Przhevalsky (he of "horse" fame, but otherwise a run-of-the-mill wildlife-slaughtering asshole) and Hernando de Soto (an exceptionally racist indigenous-people-slaughtering sonuvabitch). But in general, a broadly commendable group, even if many of them either died in the field or spent their lives pursuing unattainable goals, (Lhasa, source of the Niger, non-existent Northwest Passage, Australia's non-existent inland sea, etc.)
As with all such books, a huge number of "who knew?" facts here. For example:
* By the time Lewis & Clark reached the Pacific, the local Chinookian tribes had already had so many dealings with traders and sailors that they knew and used the phrase "son of a bitch"
* That same Clark went on to serve several presidents in setting up the government's Indian Affairs offices, but ultimately was a key player in Andrew Jackson's horrendous "Indian removal program;" while that same Lewis killed himself just three years after completing their trans-continental expedition
* The Native American "Mississippian culture" (which I had also never heard of) covered much of the U.S. from around 800-1600 CE and had striking similarities to the Mesoamerican cultures of Central America; but following exposure to the Spanish adopted their horses and a then-possible nomadic lifestyle, leading to the "Plains Indians" that later American settlers encountered centuries later
* Isambard Kingdom Brunel - another name I have only heard of recently, but then in multiple circumstances. First and weirdest, Sting wrote a song about him on his 2013 album "The Last Ship;" and then I heard of him again not long ago…I forget where. But then he's mentioned briefly in this book for having taken Alexander von Humboldt under the Thames in a diving bell! Not a lot of famous 19th century engineers, but Brunel was apparently a real standout - so should probably learn more about him as well.
ORIGINAL REVIEW: Another great find from McKay Used Books in Manassas ($2 "like new"), and a great nightstand book where I can read 1-2 brief explorer bios before going to sleep.
Includes a number of my favorites (Younghusband, Wallace, Shackleton, Burton, Humboldt, Cousteau), but also is introducing me to an equal number of folks I've never heard of - Ney Elias, Thomas Baines, James Bruce, Wally Herbert, Marianne North, Gino Watkins, and many more. Sweet!...more
Was captured by the over-the-top grandiosity of the title - reminded me of a story I wrote for my boys when they were very little called "The Almost-IWas captured by the over-the-top grandiosity of the title - reminded me of a story I wrote for my boys when they were very little called "The Almost-Impossible-To-Believe-But-Who-Knows-Maybe-They-Could-Really-Happen Adventures of Myles and William." :)
So okay, maybe Humboldt wasn't the "greatest inventor-naturalist-scientist-explorer" EVER, but he's certainly someone who deserves greater recognition today than he seeems to have - if only for providing one of the best (and surprisingly) political quotes ever:
Once again, children's books to the rescue - a surprisingly well-told, well-drawn story of John Wesley Powell and his epic exploration of the ColoradoOnce again, children's books to the rescue - a surprisingly well-told, well-drawn story of John Wesley Powell and his epic exploration of the Colorado River, with accompanying flashbacks to his childhood and rapid rise through the Union ranks in the Civil War.
That said, this is a strange little book series - basically, a Scheherazadhe-type concept whereby the original Nathan Hale (not this author of the same name) entertains his executioners with various "hazardous tales" in order to postpone his hanging. The result is a weird mashup of humor and historical gruesomeness, such as this spread which graphically shows how amputations were handled during the Civil War on one page, and highlights the killing fields of Shiloh on the other.
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Will definitely check out some of the other titles available at our library, which include the Monitor and the Merrimac, the Donner Party, WWI trench warfare, the Doolittle Raid, and the Korean War. Good times!!...more
Interesting but just oddly crafted and organized, this "history" of the Society of Women Geographers could have been so much better. After several chaInteresting but just oddly crafted and organized, this "history" of the Society of Women Geographers could have been so much better. After several chapters on the founding of the society,* it jumps around to tell the stories of numerous, otherwise-unrelated female adventurers, activists, suffragettes, etc. - not all of whom seem linked to the theme of "explorers/geographers." You can probably put together as good or even better a story by going to the society's Wikipedia page (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Society...) and clicking on the individual gold medal award winners; or else visiting the society's own website, http://www.iswg.org/, which unlike the book doesn't basically end in the 1940.
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* Haha - ooh nooo!! Apparently, the society was in part started in response to an inarguably chauvinistic 1932 speech delivered by my otherwise-main man Roy Chapman Andrews to female students at Barnard College. Product of your time or not - not cool, Roy!...more
A delightfully addictive – and at this point, probably the only – entry in the field of “nostalgic geography," this slim book belongs on the nightstanA delightfully addictive – and at this point, probably the only – entry in the field of “nostalgic geography," this slim book belongs on the nightstand of every armchair geographer, (and yes, I know that nightstands are generally not next to armchairs, but you know what I mean).
Written with the dry wit that only the English are truly capable of, all of the short stories here are informative; many are humorous, a number are tragic (Yugoslavia, Burma, pretty much anything in colonial Africa that came out of the brutal “carving of the African cake” at the Berlin Conference of 1884), and one which is completely fictional (you’ll have to find it yourself). But in terms of sheer anger-inducing “wrongness” (in large part due to its having been committed solely by the UK on the part of the US), nothing beats the story of the Chagos Islands, aka the British Indian Ocean Territory (BOIT), home of the island of Diego Garcia.
During the early 1970s, the US wanted an Air Force base in the Indian Ocean which provided long-range bomber access to the Middle East. Technically owned by the British (although as of 2019, the International Court of Justice had ruled that all the islands must be returned to Mauritius), the “Naval Support Facility Diego Garcia” was constructed and then leased to the US through 2036. Unfortunately, in order to build the base, Britain forcibly relocated the islands entire population (human, that is – pet dogs were gassed) to either Mauritius or the Seychelles, where many continue living in abject poverty to this day. (To learn more about this shameful episode, just Google the word “Chagossians”.)
Thankfully, most other stories are just plain fascinating, and among other things I finally learned the purpose of the Caprivi Strip, that little “handle” off the northeast corner of Namibia (formerly South West Africa). And no, I’m not telling you here – you’ll have to do your own research – but I will give you a hint: it is not the same as that of the similarly-shaped Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan (see below maps for comparison).
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Campbell does devote too much time to Greater Britain (including pieces on Rutland, North Britain, Londonderry, Central Region, Piddle, Carnavon, Skildar, Ebrauc, Cathures, Skye and perhaps a few more I’ve missed), but in light of everything else I’m willing to forgive him his local pride. Were he not a classic Englishman, this book would certainly lack much of its humor, particularly its delightful and totally British footnotes, most of which are informational but also include all of the following, which appear at random throughout the book (and totally out of context here):
* Or perhaps not. * Not to be confused with Zyzzyx, which as you know is a genus of sand wasp. * Obviously. * It's a calculated gamble. * Though not by this author, who must remain strictly neutral on that point, out of both ignorance and pusillanimity. * No tree pun intended. * Is it true? No, of course not. * People, of course, not black-and-white cows. * Ovis aries, if you are a sheep-fancier, and of course no one is implying anything unsavory by that. * Who probably never existed either. * In 2006 (and this is truly irrelevant) it gained the dubious distinction...
One of the better entries in this long-running series. Covers this interesting topic from a variety of unexpected angles - not just shipwrecks themselOne of the better entries in this long-running series. Covers this interesting topic from a variety of unexpected angles - not just shipwrecks themselves, but the history and development of rescue techniques, lighthouses, diving and submersibles, ship-to-ship communications, navigation, etc.
It was, surprisingly, light on the subject of search, salvage and recovery - just what all has been brought back up from these uncountable wrecks - and I would have expected a mention at least of legendary treasure hunter Mel Fisher. But otherwise, an enjoyable, comprehensive and informative read.
PERSONAL NOTE: Despite the numerous ship-to-ship/ship-to-shore signaling systems the book mentions, they somehow missed this World War II U.S. Navy Morse code signal gun. I know it resembles a prehistoric T-shirt cannon, but in fact the long barrel kept anyone outside direct line of sight (like lurking submarines) literally "in the dark":
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This thing has been in our family forever, although I have no idea why. My dad was too young for the war, but it might have come from one of his uncles who fought, (before they all disowned him for "marrying outside the faith;" apparently back then, a Catholic marrying a Methodist was a mortal sin!)....more
MEA CUPLA: Having spent so much of my adult life overseas, I realize that I have been inexcusably ill-informed about certain issues here in my own couMEA CUPLA: Having spent so much of my adult life overseas, I realize that I have been inexcusably ill-informed about certain issues here in my own country, particularly our fraught history of race relations and the Black Lives Matter movement. So anyway, as just an initial small step to correct this appalling lack of awareness, I’m adding a “Black History” bookshelf here on GR, beginning this excellent if slim biography of Matthew Henson, disputably the first man of any color to reach the North Pole.
Arctic or Antarctic, polar exploration is always brutal; but it’s particularly difficult in the north where there is literally no ground to stand on – there’s just ice above and water below, and that’s it. Still, the history of Robert Peary’s and Matthew Henson’s eight – eight! – attempts to reach the Pole were particularly painful. During their final successful attempt in 1909, Henson literally hauled Peary across the ice for well over a a week, as Peary had lost eight toes to frostbite some eleven years earlier and could barely walk. Also, while scouting ahead just 15 miles south of the pole, Henson and his dog team fell through the ice and were only barely rescued from the frigid water by one of the party’s Inuit members.*
Not having read much about either Peary or Henson before, I was surprised to discover that upon their return, Peary’s party learned that a competing (and more media-friendly) expedition lead by one Dr. Cook claimed to have reached the Pole a full year earlier; it then took a six-month investigation for Cook to be exposed as a fraud and Peary’s claim to be unanimously recognized. But by that time, Peary had ceased all contact with Henson; and so when the accolades and awards came in – a Hubbard Medal (the National Geographi Society’s highest honor), full Navy pension, Congressional recognition, etc. – it all went straight to Peary, with no mention of Henson. So while Peary went on to a comfortable retirement and international acclaim, Henson found a job parking cars in Brooklyn, (although black politicians some of Henson’s friends finally persuaded President Taft to award Henson the job of “messenger boy” at the U.S. Customs House in New York City).
Why this sudden rift, after some 22 years of shared exploration? Certainly, Peary deserves credit for sticking with Henson in the first place – he was smart enough to recognize that Henson was simply the best man for the job, regardless of his race. And yet...this was still just 40 years after the Civil War. As one source puts it:
‘But Peary, who author Fergus Fleming called “the most unpleasant man in the annals of polar exploration,” had no interest in sharing the glory of the accomplishment with any other man, especially a black man. Years before his quest for the Pole commenced, Peary had written to his mother, “I must be the peer or superior of those about me to be comfortable.”
‘And Henson made Peary very uncomfortable indeed. While Peary viewed him as an inferior, it was Henson who was essentially the de facto leader of the Polar expeditions – Henson who took care of the other men, dogs, and supplies; Henson who spoke the Eskimo language; Henson who fixed the sledges (tough sleds) and used those sledges to pull Peary, who’s walking ability was hampered by the loss of 8 of his toes to frostbite on a previous expedition, to and from the Pole. Without the skills of Matthew Henson, the American flag would not likely have been the first atop the world.
‘Yet during the 1909 expedition, Peary had secretly planned to leave Henson behind once they got close to the Pole, so that he could claim farthest north all for himself. But the expedition made better time than he realized (it’s hard to keep track when you’re laying in a sled), and the team landed at the Pole before he had a chance to ditch the others.
‘Crestfallen that he had to share the glory of the moment with 4 Eskimos and a black man, Peary immediately ceased to speak to Henson, the man who had saved his life on a previous expedition and had remained absolutely loyal to him for 22 years when every other member of the expeditions had left because of Peary’s insufferable personality and demands. Unwilling to share the resulting fame, Peary forbade Henson to write, lecture, or grant interviews about the expedition. Henson had used his own camera to take 100 pictures on the trip and used his own money to develop them. Peary asked to borrow these pictures and then never gave them back.’
Thankfully – if belatedly – Henson did at least get a portion of the recognition he deserved. In 1944, Congress issued a medal honoring all members of the Peary expedition; and in 1954, President Eisenhower held a White House reception for Henson and his wife. And finally, in 2000, the National Geographic Society posthumously awarded Henson its Hubbard Medal – the same award given to Peary 91 years earlier. Today, the bodies of Henson and his wife Lucy lie in Arlington Cemetery next to that of Peary, beneath a tombstone that reads: “The lure of the Arctic is tugging at my heart. To me the trail is calling. The old trail. The trail that is always new.”
* Just as Henson deserves full recognition for his feats, so too do the Inuit members of the expedition – Seegloo, Egingwah, Ooquesh and Ootah, (seen below; Henson is holding the U.S. flag). Interestingly, humorously and oh-so-tellingly, the Inuit were amazed to finally reach the Pole after so many years and realize it was just another expanse of ice; “but there's nothing here,” said a disappointed Ootah, who had earlier saved Henson from the black water and then again saved Henson's frozen feet by warming them on his bare stomach).
Anyone who's read any of the numerous books about Ernest Shackleton's epic tale of polar survival either recognizes the name "Tom Crean" or at least oAnyone who's read any of the numerous books about Ernest Shackleton's epic tale of polar survival either recognizes the name "Tom Crean" or at least one of the below photos:
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But I really knew very little about the man himself until I had the pleasure of visiting The South Pole Inn during a recent drive around Ireland's gorgeous Dingle peninsula, (most famous these days as the site of Luke Skywalker's "Ahch-To" hideaway island in the last two Star Wars films). In addition to selling a mean pint and being decorated in all sorts of Crean-related ephemera, this lovely pub also sold signed copies of this book, which now holds a special place on my Shackleton bookshelf.
Crean did indeed lead a remarkable life, which Foley's reportorial-style bio lays out in great detail. The book rightly focused on Tom's life as an explorer, but is neatly bookended with his Potat0 Famine childhood and his "retirement" from exploring, which coincided with Ireland's fight for independence. As such, it's as much a history as a biography, and all the better for it.
As an explorer, Crean is most famous for his role in the Shackleton saga, especially for being a key member of the trio that made the final harrowing trek across South Georgia Island. But until reading this book, I had no idea of his involvement in Robert Scott's fateful trek to the South Pole, (indeed, Crean was - I'm pretty sure - the only individual to take part in both the Endurance and Terra Nova expeditions). In fact, Crean's epic 35-mile solo trek to save the life of an ailing crewmate earned him the Albert Medal for bravery from King George himself. Had Scott survived his own trek, Crean's efforts would have been a high point of the entire expedition, but the tragic loss of Scott and his party ultimately overshadowed all other details of this particular voyage. (Sadly, Crean was later a member of the party that had to then go out and find/bury Scott's body.)
At times, Foley's story veers towards hagiography. But I really can't blame him; Crean led an amazing life but has long been denied his proper credit, since "back in the day" such kudos were rarely went to the front-line men and women, but were usually reserved for expedition leaders themselves, (or generals, or presidents...don't get me started). So more credit to Foley for blatantly and proudly looking to correct this oversight in his goal to gain some "official" recognition for Crean as a national hero, in the form or renaming the Kerry Airport or an Irish Navy ship in his honor, or something similar.
So, please go and like Foley's "Ireland Should Honour Tom Crean" Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/honourtomcrean/. Buy the T-shirt! Buy the e-book! Visit the pub! Or at the very least read Crean's detailed Wiki page at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Cre.... But for God's sake, don't visit Antarctica - that place is terrible!
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