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472 pages, Paperback
First published August 2, 2022
Campaigners, chefs, and food writers rail against 'intensive farming', and the harm it does to us and our world. But the problem is not the adjective, it's the noun.
Farming is the world's greatest cause of habitat destruction, the greatest cause of global loss of wildlife, and the greatest cause of the global extinction crisis. It's responsible for around 80% of the deforestation that's happened this century. Food production (including commercial fishing) is the main reason why the world population of wild vertebrate animals has fallen by 68% since 1970. Of 28,000 species known to be at risk of extinction, 24,000 are threatened by farming. Only 29% of the weight of birds on Earth consists of wild species: all the rest are poultry. Chickens alone weigh more than all other birds put together, including farmed ducks and turkeys. Just 4% of the world's mammals, by weight, are wild; humans account for 36%, and livestock are the remaining 60%. This is caused not by intensive farming or extensive farming, but a disastrous combination of the two.
I'm not saying it's impossible. There are some thriving farms in my city, neatly integrated into people's homes, expensively equipped with lights, pumps, and temperature controls, growing crops to precise specifications. Every so often they're busted, and the farmers led away in handcuffs.
Skunk can be grown this way because it's among the few farm products - all of which are illegal in most jurisdictions - that justifies the outlay.
[...]
Almost uniquely, in this field repeated failure appears to be no deterrent. At first sight, it's one of life's great mysteries, comparable to the Tardis-like properties of tupperware or the current whereabouts of my phone. But I think it reflects two things: how little most tech entrepreneurs understand farming, and the determined belief in magic that food production inspires.